beverly Hills, CA
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March 15, 2012 11:17 PM
Retinoids were developed in Europe but most of the work on acne and photo aging was performed by Albert Kligman at the University Of Pennsylvania School Of Medicine's Durhing labs.
Retinoids were developed in Europe but most of the work on acne and photo aging was performed by Albert Kligman at the University Of Pennsylvania School Of Medicine's Durhing labs. Trenitoin (Retin-A) has been studied for over 37 years. It is the prototype agent of all Cosmeceuticals. However unlike almost all the other products it has a supporting evidence-based medical background that is not seen with any other agent. Besides its efficacy in acne it also improves pigments, very fine wrinkles, dryness and erythema. Retinoids have the ability to repair Atypical DNA. It is also used to repair non-photo damaged skin and pure age related changes. Retinoids can irritate so consumers must ease into their use by staggering use over the first week then increasing use on the second to build up to every day use by the third week.
While some like to apply it like toothpaste the secret is to use a small amount and can be mixed with hydrocortisone. Apply it all over your face. My personal preference that I prescribe to my patients are:
A)Tretinoin (Retin-A) (Renova)
B)Adalapene (Differin) (less irritating)
C)Tazarotene (Tazorac) (more irritating-always dilute and use 0.05 concentration)
Having used retinoids in clinical practice for 38 years there is nothing that comes close in the area of cosmeceuticals. The uses of retinoids require a committed regimen by the patient. Many products these days contain Vitamin A. This Vitamin A is Retinol which is the alcohol form of Vitamin A. It is a precursor of Retinoic acid and conversion occurs in the skin. Some feel irritation is necessary for indication that the product is effective. It is 10 times less potent than Retinoic acid and is an unstable molecule that can be destroyed by light and oxygen. A good example of a product like this is Retinol SA from the Ageless Intensive Line by Neutrogena. Its concentration of retinol is high enough to be effective (i.e. converted to retinoic acid.) The issue I have with the Neutrogena product is that there are all these weird add add-ons that come with the product such as the facial vibrator and cleansing pads one is suppose to use. Why? Buying a new cream becomes tantamount to buying a new car. Why they can't simply sell the cream?
Retinoids if overused can cause temporary wrinkles due to irritation, Just stop using it and they will go away. So do not overuse it!